Thursday, July 16- Saturday, July 18, 2014

The Kootenays are where the best motorcycle roads are. Every region has its strengths…the stunning scenery of the Rockies…the twisty lake roads of the Okanagan…the ruggedness of the Thompson Plateau…but what makes the Kootenays the best is that it has ALL of those things in one package.

The mountains have white peaks and are loaded with lush forests, and they are so tight that any roads through them are twisty as hell as they curve against the mountainside. Most of them are high above the fjord lakes like Kootenay, Slocan, and Arrow…and the only way across them is by ferry. For some the ferry may seem like a pain in the ass, but to me they’re a free boat ride across some of the most beautiful lakes in the world. I even like waiting for them.

And that smell. You know, THAT smell. It’s especially strong when it’s raining or cooler out…the smell of the forest…of life…and it’s all around you. There’s a serious force of nature here. The Kootenays are possibly the most beautiful place on the planet…at least that I’ve seen so far.

I did a lot of riding and little else during these three days. I was staying in Kaslo all three nights, so after leaving New Denver on the first day I rode all the way up past Nakusp to the Upper Arrow Lakes Ferry. After riding the ferry I did an immediate u-turn and rode the exact same ferry back across the lake. After my double-ferry ride I rode all the way down to Kaslo to check in by mid-afternoon. I then rode down to Balfour where I discovered a minor construction stoppage. I would end up riding this highway four times in total. Anyway, in Balfour I had a pint at the pub at the ferry landing and went right back to Kaslo.

I chose to stay in Kaslo because of its natural beauty and isolation. Up until now I’d have said that it’s the most beautiful town I’ve ever stayed in, but now New Denver is fighting for that title. The towns are very similar, just on different lakes. Each has their own complimentary vibe…a local told me that New Denver has a feminine energy, and Kaslo is masculine. I totally understood what he meant by that. Energies, man.

Speaking of energies, in Kaslo I stay at the Kaslo Motel. Clean, well kept, very affordable, and the family that owns it is super cool. When I checked in they put me in Room 18. This was the exact same room I was in the first time I stayed here…it was a single night back on Ryan & Silver’s Excellent Adventure 2007. It was in this room…the next morning…when David Karwacki, then Leader of the Saskatchewan Liberals, had called me to discuss the possibility of running in the Battlefords. That was seven years ago, and I vividly recall being in this same room for the call.

On the second day I slept in a bit and rode back out to New Denver to catch their Friday sidewalk sale that I discovered last year. I really just wanted to ride the New Denver-Kaslo highway again. It is a stellar motorcycle road and is my second favourite in the area. I then rode back down to the Crowsnest, and on the way I discovered a craft distillery that I just tried on a whim.

I now have a bottle of craft vodka and gin to share when I get home. After a brief stop in Nelson, I rode up to the Balfour ferry terminal where I discovered a hell of a long lineup. There was a music festival called Starbelly Jam at Crawford Bay across the lake and everyone was trying to get over. I bet it was a 2-3hour wait. I chose to bypass the ferry and went back to Kaslo to chill.

On the third day I rode again. This time I left bright and early at 7:30 but I missed the 8:10 ferry by a few minutes because of construction. I rode back down to Nelson instead, where I hung out down town for a bit to drink a coffee and eat an organic oat square. Nelson has a cool downtown…could spend some serious time here…lots of little trinket shops and coffee shops and clothing stores.

I left there to go south through Ymir and over the Kootenay Skyway…the section of the Crowsnest that goes over the Kootenay pass and into Creston. This highway is the second-highest elevated highway in Canada and you basically ride straight up and then straight down. It was pretty fresh up there so early in the morning.

I did all of that just so I could ride the Creston-Kootenay Bay highway…my favourite highway to ride. It was a cooler morning…only about 22 degrees and overcast…and I rode the entire 80km while listening to Bob Marley. It was incredibly relaxing and I was able to get to Crawford Bay by lunchtime. I was in no rush to catch the ferry so I hung out at a pub for a few minutes before heading across the Lake. Unfortunately it started raining during the ferry ride, which ruined the scenery…but I still enjoyed every minute of that ride.

It was a solid three days of riding nearly every highway I could in the Kootenays. Mostly at a relaxed pace, it was a great opportunity to chill out and have nowhere to beat, nothing to hurry for, and no work to do for three whole days. It’s been fantastic.