The Tall Towers Day 7: Day Tripper

Thursday, August 1, 2013

Part of the reason I based myself in Kaslo, other than to disappear for a few days, was to enjoy the amazing mountain roads of the Kootenays at a leisurely pace.  I’m usually on a 10-hour trek when I ride through here and I really just wanted to enjoy these roads for what they are:  the best motorcycle roads in Canada.

On the ferry
On the ferry

I was up at 6:30 in order to catch the ferry at Balfour at 8:00.  This was the same ferry I rode three days prior when I rode up from Creston, only this time it would be in reverse.  The ride from Kaslo down to Balfour is very similar to the road from Creston to Kootenay Bay, although it’s not nearly as long, the views aren’t as great, and there’s less ‘flow.’  That being said, it is very enjoyable and was a wonderful way to start the day. I arrived at the ferry about 10 minutes before departure so my timing was solid.

I get a real kick out of the ferries.  I was never really exposed to boats growing up so they are quite exotic to me.  It also gives me a chance to enjoy the scenery of the Kootenays without having to watch the road or guard myself against traffic.  It really is breathtaking and the lake itself is pristine and gorgeous.  I’m pretty sure that when I die I’d like my ashes to be dumped in this lake.  From the ferry.

Well that was morbid.  Let’s move on.

On my favourite highway heading south
On my favourite highway heading south

It was a crisp morning. The sun was out but the temperature was low and there were rain clouds off to the west.  The ferry ride itself was enjoyable, and once it was done I was one of the first off (motorcyclists usually are placed at the front) and was able to roar once again onto my favourite highway.  I took my time…snapped quite a few pictures…and just enjoyed the morning mountain air.  By the time I reached Creston it was about 10:00am and I stopped quickly to fuel up before moving on in my day’s adventure.

Because I took the ferry on Day 4 I bypassed one of the main attractions of the Kootenays:  the ride over Kootenay Pass (or the Kootenay Skyway as some call it).  The road is about 60 km long, and for the first 30 km you ascend high up into the Selkirks, and for the last 30 km you descend right back down.  The pass itself is the second highest highway elevation-wise in Canada at a stunning 5,823 feet.  Only the Bow Summit on the Icefields Parkway is higher.

I paused for the rain heading up the Kootenay Pass
I paused for the rain heading up the Kootenay Pass

Unfortunately, the ride was paused so that I could put gear on because rain was coming.  It came down rather hard and I actually found shelter under a tree.  The nice thing about doing a day trip was that I didn’t pack all of my gear, so I didn’t have to frantically put garbage bags around my luggage.  The road is also very fast because it is the favoured route of big trucks, so there isn’t much opportunity for pictures.  By about 11:30 I was over the pass and in Salmo, where I rode further north past Ymir where I stayed for a night on the Road Warrior Tour 2012.

This was the location for the screening of "The Tall Man" in Kaslo
This was the location for the screening of “The Tall Man” in Kaslo

The rain continued and I decided a warm lunch was in order.  I sped through Nelson and was back on the Nelson-Balfour highway by noon.  I kept going until I was back at the Ferry launch.  There is a nice little pub there for ferry travellers that I’ve never really had a good chance to take advantage of.  I was in no hurry today so it was beer, calamari, and soup for lunch that day.   Good rainy day lunch.

At the pub next to the ferry terminal at Balfour
At the pub next to the ferry terminal at Balfour

After I ate I jumped back on Silver and rode the rest of the way back north to Kaslo.  The rain continued for most of the afternoon and so I decided to go for a walk in the rain along another trail that followed the Kaslo River to its confluence with Kootenay Lake.  I found some amazing rocks there, and it was during this moment that I decided to take a bunch home.  My lapidary equipment at home was intact but it had cobwebs on them.  It was time to dust them off and get back into rock polishing….and my first batch would be rocks from the Tall Towers episode.

That evening I was back in the Kaslo Hotel for a final meal overlooking the lake.  I soaked in the scenery as I thought about how fortunate the people who live here are.  The day trip I just took was spectacular and took me on some of the best motorcycle roads in the country.  Kaslo was the perfect place for me to relax and enjoy myself for a few days…mountains, winding roads, fresh air…and the lake.  Oh, Kootenay Lake.  If I have a favourite lake it’s Kootenay Lake.  Everything about it is spectacular.

It would be hard to leave this place…but it had to be done.  Tomorrow I was heading north.

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