Day 4: Rock the Boat

Wednesday, July 2nd, 2008

I’ve only been on Vancouver Island one time before: on a day trip with my family in 1989. This was my first time alone, and my first time on the far western coast of the Island. I was excited to get there, but before I was able to let Silver loose on the Island highways, we would need to ride a ferry between Horseshoe Bay and Nanaimo.

I learned something about ferries before I even boarded: motorcyclists are treated like royalty. I approached the ferry terminal to discover a long line of cars that were all waiting to board the same ferry as I was. After paying my fee, I was told to head down “Lane 1”…which was confusing since all of the cars were lined up in lanes 5, 6, and 7. It turns out that Lane 1 was completely empty, and when I reached the front, after passing what seemed like hundreds of waiting cars- people who have probably been waiting for hours- I was ushered to the very front with the 4 other motorcyclists that were given the same treatment.

On ferries, the rule for motorcycles is “first on, and first off.” Rock stars.

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I enjoyed the ferry ride, although I did my best not to be such an obvious tourist. I figured a lot of these people were commuters or Island inhabitants who traveled to the mainland for Canada Day, and there I was taking pictures of everything I could for the nearly 2 hour trip.

After arriving in Nanaimo I headed straight toward Port Alberni, which meant I had to ride through a little town called Coombs.  I stopped there for a minute to check out an emporium with goats that live on the roof that my friend told me about.  He didn’t lie- there were goats on a roof.

After Coombs I headed west and passed through the Cathedral Grove. The grove is an old growth forest that straddles the highway. I stopped to walk around for a bit and was mesmerized by the place. The forest had an amazing presence, and even though I was alone in there, I didn’t feel alone. The forest had eyes, and I felt like I was being watched…but not in a scary way. Some of these trees are 800 years old, and are massive in size. There is life everywhere in this forest.

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Oh, and one other thing about the forests of the Pacific Northwest (and especially the cathedral grove): they all look like Endor. I kept expecting an Ewok to pop its head up from the ferns.

After another few hours of riding I finally made it to my destination: the west coast of Vancouver Island and the Pacific Rim National Park. I pulled over at Long Beach as soon as I got there and walked out to see the ocean. I had made it: this was as far west as I could possibly go while still standing in Canada. As I breathed in the salty sea air and looked out over the ocean I realized that the next island out there was Japan. It was an amazing feeling.

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I found my motel easily and traveled into Tofino for dinner. I had a halibut sandwich. Fresh halibut that somebody caught earlier that day. Gotta love that fresh seafood.

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